Planting and Soil Preparation

Sandy soils drain fast and hold little water; clay soils hold water and drain slowly; adding compost and organic matter improves both.

Most landscape plants and turf prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH of about 6.0 to 7.0, where nutrients stay available.

Lower alkaline soil pH with elemental sulfur; raise acidic soil pH with lime; use gypsum to improve structure and displace sodium in sodic clay, not to change pH.

Do not till fresh wood chips into soil, because microbes decomposing them cause a temporary nitrogen drawdown that yellows plants; use them as surface mulch instead.

Improve heavy clay drainage by incorporating organic matter and grading to move excess water away; avoid adding only sand, which can worsen clay.

Rough grade then finish grade to establish positive surface drainage away from structures and a smooth, even planting bed.

Manage salt buildup by leaching with a deep irrigation that moves salts below the root zone, which requires adequately draining soil.

The N-P-K label lists nitrogen, phosphorus (P2O5), then potassium (K2O) by percent; nitrogen drives leaf growth, phosphorus roots and flowers, potassium overall vigor.

Actual nutrient pounds = bag weight x nutrient percent; for example, a 50-lb bag of 20-0-10 supplies 10 lb of nitrogen.

Match the deficient nutrient to the analysis: use a high-middle-number product like 0-45-0 to correct low phosphorus.

Slow-release fertilizers meter nutrients out over time, reducing burn risk and leaching, which is especially helpful on sandy soils.

Dig planting holes two to three times the width of the root ball but no deeper than the ball, and set the top of the ball at or slightly above finished grade.

Remove or peel back synthetic burlap, twine, and wire baskets from the top of B&B root balls so roots can grow outward.

Stake trees loosely to allow slight trunk movement, use broad soft ties, and remove stakes after about one growing season.

Space plants by their mature size, and group plants with similar water needs (hydrozoning) to support efficient irrigation.

Apply about 3 inches of organic mulch to conserve moisture, moderate soil temperature, and suppress weeds without piling it against trunks.

Choose cool-season grasses (like tall fescue) for spring and fall growth and warm-season grasses (like Bermuda) for summer heat.

Keep a new seedbed consistently moist with light frequent watering until seedlings establish, then shift to deeper, less frequent irrigation.