Illinois Cosmetology License Exam — All Questions

Which layer of the hair shaft contains the melanin (pigment) and makes up most of the hair's strength and elasticity?

• a.The cuticle
• b.The cortex✓
• c.The medulla
• d.The follicle

The hair shaft has three layers. The cuticle is the tough outer layer of overlapping scales that protects the strand. The cortex is the thick middle layer that contains melanin (natural pigment) and the bonds responsible for most of the hair's strength, elasticity, and its response to chemical services like color and perms. The medulla is the soft, often absent core. The follicle is the skin structure that surrounds the root, not a layer of the shaft.

During a haircut, the term 'elevation' refers to:

• a.The direction in which the hair naturally grows
• b.The amount of tension applied while combing
• c.The angle at which a section is held away from the head✓
• d.The degree of shift from the section's natural fall line

Elevation (also called projection) is the angle at which a subsection of hair is lifted away from the head before it is cut. Zero elevation (held at 0 degrees, straight down) produces a blunt, one-length or heavier line; 90-degree elevation builds layers; and 180 degrees creates long, graduated layering. Controlling elevation, along with the cutting line/angle, is how a stylist creates weight, graduation, and layers.

The three phases of the hair growth cycle, in order, are:

• a.Anagen (growth), catagen (transition), telogen (rest)✓
• b.Telogen (growth), anagen (rest), catagen (transition)
• c.Catagen (growth), telogen (transition), anagen (rest)
• d.Anagen (rest), telogen (growth), catagen (shedding phase)

Hair grows in a repeating cycle of three phases. Anagen is the active growth phase, during which the hair is actively produced and can last several years. Catagen is the brief transition phase, when growth stops and the follicle begins to shrink. Telogen is the resting phase, at the end of which the hair sheds and a new anagen phase begins. Most scalp hair is in the anagen phase at any given time.

A client with very fine, thin hair wants more apparent volume. Which cutting approach generally helps create the illusion of fullness?

• a.Removing weight aggressively with heavy thinning throughout
• b.Layering with a blunt perimeter line✓
• c.Cutting all hair at zero elevation only, keeping maximum length
• d.Slide-cutting every section to remove as much density as possible

Fine or thin hair already lacks density, so aggressively thinning or removing weight makes it look even sparser. A blunt perimeter keeps the appearance of density at the ends, while controlled layering can build height and volume. The goal is to preserve and shape existing density, not strip it away. Matching the cutting technique to the client's hair type is a core styling fundamental.

What is the primary function of the cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair shaft?

• a.To protect the strand with overlapping scales that must be raised for chemicals to enter✓
• b.To hold the melanin granules that determine the hair's natural color level
• c.To supply the growing hair with nourishment carried in by the bloodstream
• d.To form the soft central core that is often absent in very fine hair

The cuticle is the tough outer layer of overlapping, translucent scales that shields the interior of the strand and gives hair its shine. Because those scales lie flat when the hair is healthy, alkaline products are used to swell and lift them so color, waving lotion, or relaxer can reach the cortex. The pigment and the strength of the hair belong to the cortex, the soft core is the medulla, and nourishment comes from the papilla at the root, not from any layer of the shaft.

Which statement about the medulla of the hair is accurate?

• a.It is the middle layer that holds the bonds altered during permanent waving
• b.It is the outer layer of overlapping scales that gives the hair its shine
• c.It is the innermost core of the shaft and is often absent in very fine hair✓
• d.It is the living part of the hair found below the surface of the scalp

The medulla is the innermost layer of the hair shaft, a soft column of round cells that is frequently missing altogether in fine and naturally blond hair. It plays no known role in salon services, which is why chemical work is aimed at the cortex and cuticle. The middle layer holding the pigment and the side bonds is the cortex, the scaly outer layer is the cuticle, and the only living portion of the hair is the root area inside the follicle.

Hair is made mainly of the protein keratin. Which bond joins amino acids end to end to build the long chains of that protein?

• a.The hydrogen bond, a weak physical bond that is broken every time hair is wet
• b.The salt bond, a weak physical bond broken by strongly alkaline or acidic products
• c.The disulfide bond, a strong chemical bond broken by permanent waving solution
• d.The peptide bond, which links amino acids into a long polypeptide chain✓

Amino acids are joined end to end by peptide bonds, and the resulting polypeptide chains coil to form keratin, the fibrous protein hair is built from. Peptide bonds run lengthwise along the chain and are not broken in ordinary salon work. Hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds are side bonds: they cross-link neighboring chains, and it is those cross-links, not the peptide bonds, that styling and chemical services manipulate.

Which side bond in the hair is the strongest, and must be broken and reformed chemically to change the shape of the hair permanently?

• a.The hydrogen bond, a weak physical bond that water and heat can break
• b.The disulfide bond, a strong chemical bond joining two sulfur atoms✓
• c.The salt bond, a weak physical bond broken by a change in the pH
• d.The peptide bond, which links the amino acids along the chain

Disulfide bonds are chemical cross-links between the sulfur atoms of neighboring polypeptide chains and are far stronger than the physical side bonds. They are broken by the reducing agent in a permanent wave and rebuilt by the neutralizer, and they are broken by a relaxer to straighten the hair. Hydrogen and salt bonds are weak physical bonds that break easily with water, heat, or pH change, and peptide bonds run lengthwise rather than across the chains.

A client's smooth blow-dry style collapses back into its natural wave after she is caught in the rain. Which bonds explain this?

• a.Hydrogen bonds, which water and heat break and which reform as the hair dries✓
• b.Disulfide bonds, which can only be broken by a chemical reducing agent
• c.Peptide bonds, which hold amino acids together in a long protein chain
• d.Salt bonds, which can only be broken by permanent waving solution

Hydrogen bonds are weak physical side bonds that are broken by water and by heat and then reform when the hair cools and dries in a new position. That is exactly why wet sets and thermal styling work and why they last only until the next shampoo or a humid day. Disulfide bonds require chemical treatment and would not be affected by rain, salt bonds are broken by changes in pH rather than by waving lotion alone, and peptide bonds are not broken by styling at all.

Inside the hair follicle, the dermal papilla matters to the cosmetologist because it:

• a.contracts to make the hair stand up when a person is cold or frightened
• b.secretes the oil that lubricates the hair shaft and the surface of the scalp
• c.is the tube-like depression in the skin that holds the root of the hair
• d.contains the blood supply that feeds the cells building the growing hair✓

The dermal papilla is a small cone-shaped elevation at the base of the follicle that fits into the hair bulb and carries the blood supply nourishing the cells that produce the hair. Because it feeds hair production, damage to the papilla can end growth from that follicle, and no product applied to the shaft can reach it. The muscle that raises the hair is the arrector pili, the oil gland is the sebaceous gland, and the pocket holding the root is the follicle itself.

Which structure attached to the hair follicle produces goose bumps by pulling the hair upright?

• a.The sebaceous gland, which empties its secretion into the follicle
• b.The arrector pili muscle, a small involuntary muscle at the follicle✓
• c.The hair bulb, the thickened club-shaped base of the hair root
• d.The dermal papilla, the cone-shaped structure at the base of the bulb

The arrector pili is a tiny involuntary muscle attached to the side of the follicle; when it contracts in response to cold or fright it pulls the hair upright and puckers the skin into goose bumps. The sebaceous gland is the oil gland that empties sebum into the follicle, the bulb is the club-shaped lower end of the root, and the papilla supplies the blood that nourishes growth. None of those three moves the hair.

The lowest part of the hair root, a thickened club-shaped structure that fits down over the papilla, is called the:

• a.hair follicle, the tube-shaped pocket of skin that encases the hair root
• b.sebaceous gland, the oil gland opening into the upper part of the follicle
• c.hair bulb, the club-shaped swelling forming the lower part of the root✓
• d.arrector pili, the small muscle attached to the side of the follicle

The hair bulb is the swollen, club-shaped lower end of the hair root, and its hollow underside fits over the dermal papilla that nourishes it. The follicle is the tube-like depression of skin that contains the entire root, the sebaceous gland empties oil into that follicle to keep hair and scalp lubricated, and the arrector pili is the muscle that raises the hair. Only the bulb and the papilla are directly involved in producing new hair.

A client is alarmed that she loses a number of hairs every time she shampoos. What is the accurate explanation?

• a.Any hair lost during shampooing signals a fungal infection needing a physician
• b.Shedding happens only when the shampoo chosen is too alkaline for her hair
• c.Hairs come out only when rough brushing has cut the growing phase short
• d.Shedding of hairs that have reached the resting phase is normal and expected✓

Each follicle runs its own cycle of anagen (active growth), catagen (a brief transition in which growth stops), and telogen (rest), and at the end of telogen the hair is released and a new one begins to grow. Because follicles are not synchronized, a healthy scalp sheds hairs every day, and shampooing simply dislodges hairs that were already loose. Only patchy loss, broken hairs, or a scaly, inflamed scalp calls for referral to a physician.

A client believes that cutting her hair often will make it grow back faster and thicker. The professional should explain that:

• a.trimming stimulates the papilla, so more frequent cuts really do speed growth
• b.growth occurs in the follicle, so cutting the ends cannot change the rate✓
• c.cutting thickens each strand because a blunt end has a wider diameter
• d.frequent cutting shortens the resting phase and starts new hairs sooner

Hair is produced by living cells in the bulb at the base of the follicle, while the shaft above the scalp is nonliving keratinized tissue. Cutting that shaft cannot signal the follicle, so it changes neither the rate of growth nor the number of hairs. Regular trims do keep ends free of splits so the hair looks fuller and retains length better, but the blunt end only feels thicker; the diameter of the strand itself is set by the follicle.

About how much does scalp hair grow in an average month?

• a.About one-half inch, which works out to roughly six inches in a year✓
• b.About one-eighth inch, which works out to about an inch and a half a year
• c.About one inch, which works out to roughly twelve inches over a year
• d.About two inches, which works out to roughly twenty-four inches a year

The standard figure taught for scalp hair is average growth of about one-half inch per month, or roughly six inches over a year, though rate varies with age, health, and season. Knowing this figure lets a stylist estimate how long a client will wait for a grow-out, or how much regrowth to expect between color retouches. One inch and two inches a month are far above any normal rate, and one-eighth inch a month is far below it.

A stylist parts the hair and estimates the number of individual strands growing on one square inch of scalp. Which characteristic is being assessed?

• a.Texture, which describes the diameter of one individual strand of hair
• b.Porosity, which describes how readily the hair absorbs and holds moisture
• c.Density, the number of individual hairs on a square inch of scalp✓
• d.Elasticity, which describes how far a strand stretches and then recoils

Density measures how many hairs are packed onto a given area of scalp and is described as low, medium, or high; it tells the stylist how much hair there is to work with. Texture is a separate property, the thickness of the individual strand, classified as fine, medium, or coarse. Porosity and elasticity describe the condition of the strand rather than its quantity, and a client can easily have fine texture with high density or the reverse.

Sliding the fingers from the ends of a strand back toward the scalp, a stylist feels the hair ruffle up and feel rough. This indicates:

• a.low porosity, meaning a tight cuticle that resists absorbing liquids
• b.high porosity, meaning a raised cuticle that absorbs liquid fast✓
• c.coarse texture, meaning each individual strand has a large diameter
• d.good elasticity, meaning the hair stretches and returns without breaking

Porosity is the hair's ability to absorb moisture, and it is judged largely by how the cuticle feels: hair that ruffles and grates as the fingers slide toward the scalp has a lifted, porous cuticle. Porous hair takes chemicals up quickly and can grab color or process faster than expected, so formulas and timing are adjusted. Texture concerns strand diameter and elasticity concerns stretch and recovery; neither is measured by this feel test.

A stylist tests a single strand by stretching it between the fingers. For healthy hair, which result should be expected?

• a.Dry hair stretches farther than wet hair does before returning to its length
• b.Hair with poor elasticity springs back the most and rarely breaks off
• c.Elasticity is judged by counting the hairs growing on a square inch of scalp
• d.Wet hair stretches farther than dry hair and springs back when released✓

Elasticity is the ability of a strand to stretch and return to its original length, and it is tested by pulling a single strand; healthy hair stretches noticeably more when wet than when dry and recoils without breaking. Hair with poor elasticity stretches little, breaks, or fails to recover, and it needs conditioning and caution before any chemical service. Counting hairs on a square inch measures density, not elasticity.

Hair that grows in a circular, swirling pattern at the crown is called a:

• a.cowlick, a tuft of hair at the hairline that stands straight up
• b.hair stream, hair that flows in the same direction across the scalp
• c.whorl, hair growing in a circular pattern at the crown✓
• d.widow's peak, a V-shaped point of growth at the front hairline

A whorl is hair growing in a circular pattern, usually found at the crown, and it must be considered when cutting and setting because hair will not lie against its own growth. A hair stream is hair flowing in one direction, formed where two streams of follicles slope in the same way, and a cowlick is a tuft at the hairline that stands up and refuses to lie flat. A widow's peak is a hairline shape rather than a growth pattern within the scalp.

Androgenic alopecia is best described as:

• a.gradual hereditary thinning, driven by hormones, of the hairline or crown✓
• b.sudden loss of hair in round or oval patches of smooth, bare skin
• c.temporary shedding a few months after childbirth that usually regrows
• d.hair loss caused by a contagious fungal infection of the scalp skin

Androgenic alopecia is hair loss resulting from genetics combined with the effect of androgen hormones on the follicle; it appears slowly, typically as a receding hairline or thinning at the crown in men and diffuse thinning through the top in women. Sudden coin-shaped bald patches describe alopecia areata, shedding after childbirth is postpartum alopecia, and a contagious scalp fungus is tinea capitis. A cosmetologist may suggest flattering cuts and refer the client to a physician, but must never promise regrowth.

A client has one round, completely bald patch about the size of a coin, with smooth skin and no redness or scaling. This is characteristic of:

• a.postpartum alopecia, which resolves on its own within several months
• b.androgenic alopecia, which follows a gradual and predictable pattern
• c.pityriasis steatoides, an inflamed and waxy form of scalp dandruff
• d.alopecia areata, which the client should discuss with a physician✓

Alopecia areata is the sudden appearance of round or oval bald patches on skin that looks otherwise normal, and it is understood as an autoimmune condition rather than an infection. It is not contagious, so salon service can usually continue, but the client should be encouraged to see a physician for evaluation. Androgenic alopecia thins gradually in a pattern rather than in discrete patches, postpartum loss is a diffuse shed, and pityriasis steatoides is a scaly, greasy scalp condition.

A client who gave birth three months ago reports heavy shedding. The professional should explain that postpartum alopecia:

• a.is permanent and calls for an immediate referral to a dermatologist
• b.is temporary shedding after childbirth from which hair normally regrows✓
• c.is contagious, so no salon service at all may be performed today
• d.is caused by shampooing too often in the final months of pregnancy

Postpartum alopecia is the temporary hair loss experienced at the close of a pregnancy, when hormone levels drop and many hairs that were held in the growing phase move into rest and shed together. Hair normally returns over the following months, so the reassuring, accurate answer is that the shedding is expected and temporary. It is not contagious, not caused by shampooing, and not a reason to refuse service, though persistent or patchy loss should be seen by a physician.

Which statement correctly distinguishes the two common forms of dandruff (pityriasis)?

• a.Pityriasis capitis simplex is dry and flaky; pityriasis steatoides is greasy or waxy✓
• b.Pityriasis capitis simplex is greasy and crusted; pityriasis steatoides is dry and flaky
• c.Both forms are contagious infections that must always be referred to a physician
• d.Both forms are caused only by shampooing with water that is too hot for the scalp

Pityriasis capitis simplex is the dry form, producing loose white flakes that scatter from the scalp, while pityriasis steatoides is the greasy or waxy form, in which the scales stick to the scalp in yellowish crusts. Dandruff itself is not contagious and is associated with a naturally occurring fungus on the scalp, so mild dry flaking can be worked on with medicated shampoo. A severe, inflamed, or crusted scalp should be referred to a physician for treatment.

A client arrives with round red patches on the scalp, scaling skin, and hairs broken off near the surface. The professional should:

• a.shampoo with a medicated product and continue with the scheduled service
• b.perform the service using disposable tools and a fresh plastic cape
• c.decline service and refer the client to a physician, as this suggests tinea✓
• d.apply a scalp conditioner to the patches and rebook the client next week

Ring-shaped red patches with scaling and hairs broken off at the scalp are the classic picture of tinea capitis, a contagious fungal infection; tinea barbae is the same kind of infection in the bearded area of the face. A contagious disease is a contraindication to service, so the correct action is to decline the appointment politely and refer the client to a physician. No shampoo, conditioner, or precaution with disposable tools makes it acceptable to work on an infectious scalp.

Pediculosis capitis is a contraindication to salon service because it is:

• a.a fungal infection of the scalp producing ring-shaped, scaly red patches
• b.an inflammation of the follicles producing small pustules on the scalp
• c.a mite that burrows under the skin and leaves wavy grayish lines
• d.an infestation of head lice whose eggs, called nits, cling to the shaft✓

Pediculosis capitis is infestation of the scalp with head lice, whose eggs, called nits, are cemented to the hair shaft near the scalp and are not removed by ordinary shampooing. It spreads readily through direct contact and shared combs, brushes, and headwear, so the client must be referred for treatment and any exposed implements and linens handled according to the salon's infection-control procedures. A scalp fungus is tinea, a burrowing mite is scabies, and pustules around follicles are folliculitis.

Which condition on a client's skin is caused by a mite that burrows beneath the surface and produces intense itching?

• a.Folliculitis, an inflammation of the hair follicles with small pustules
• b.Scabies, a highly contagious infestation needing a physician's care✓
• c.Tinea barbae, a fungal infection of the bearded areas of the face
• d.Canities, the loss of natural pigment that turns the hair strand gray

Scabies is an infestation by the itch mite, which tunnels under the skin and produces severe itching along with wavy ridges or lines; it is highly contagious and must be referred to a physician, with service refused until it is cleared. Folliculitis is inflammation of the follicles that shows as small pustules, tinea barbae is a fungal infection of the beard area, and canities is simply gray hair. Of these, canities is the only one that is never a reason to refuse a service.

Trichoptilosis is the technical term for which hair condition?

• a.Brittle hair marked by dryness and knotting, also called fragilitas crinium
• b.Beaded hair, in which the shaft has alternating thick and thin spots
• c.Split ends, in which the hair frays at the tip into two or more parts✓
• d.Gray hair, in which the strand has lost its natural melanin pigment

Trichoptilosis is the technical name for split ends, where the cuticle wears away and the fiber frays at the tip. The only real remedy is to cut the damaged ends off; conditioners can temporarily bind the frayed fiber together and reduce further breakage but cannot repair a split. Fragilitas crinium is the term for brittle hair, monilethrix describes beaded hair with thick and thin sections along the shaft, and canities is gray hair.

Which term names hair that grows with a beaded appearance, alternating thick and thin along the shaft, and breaks easily?

• a.Monilethrix, for which gentle handling and conditioning are advised✓
• b.Hypertrichosis, an excessive growth of hair where it is not usually found
• c.Canities, the condition of gray hair produced by a loss of melanin
• d.Fragilitas crinium, the technical term for brittle, easily split hair

Monilethrix is the technical term for beaded hair, in which the shaft alternates between thicker and thinner sections and snaps off easily at the narrow points. It is not contagious, so a client may be serviced, but the hair calls for gentle handling, conditioning treatments, and caution with heat and chemicals. Hypertrichosis is superfluous hair growing where it is not normally found, canities is gray hair, and fragilitas crinium is brittle hair.

Why does a shampoo service begin with an analysis of the hair and scalp?

• a.To decide how much the client should be charged for the finished style
• b.To choose the right shampoo and spot any condition that rules out service✓
• c.To determine which color formula the client will get at a future visit
• d.To confirm the hair is long enough for the style the client requested

Examining the hair and scalp before shampooing tells the professional the hair's texture, density, porosity, and condition, which is what determines the right shampoo and conditioner for that client. Just as important, the analysis is the moment to spot an abrasion, an inflamed scalp, or a sign of infection or infestation, any of which means the service must be declined and the client referred. Pricing and future color formulation are business and consultation matters, not the purpose of the analysis.

A shampoo will not build a good lather and leaves a dull film on the hair. The most likely cause is:

• a.soft water, which has had its minerals removed by a chemical process
• b.an acid-balanced shampoo, which cannot produce any lather at all
• c.water that is a little too warm for the shampoo product being used
• d.hard water, which contains minerals that interfere with lathering✓

Hard water contains dissolved minerals such as calcium and magnesium that react with the shampoo, cutting the lather and leaving a residue on the hair. Soft water has had most of those minerals removed and lathers readily, which is why it is preferred for shampooing. Acid-balanced shampoos lather normally, and water temperature affects comfort and cuticle behavior far more than it affects lather; a chelating or clarifying shampoo removes existing mineral buildup.

An acid-balanced shampoo is often recommended after a chemical service because it:

• a.removes all product buildup, which is the purpose of a clarifying shampoo
• b.is strongly alkaline, which swells the strand and lifts the cuticle open
• c.has a pH close to that of hair and skin, so the cuticle lies flatter✓
• d.contains no surfactants, so it cannot strip any oil from the hair

Hair and skin are naturally on the acid side of neutral, and an acid-balanced shampoo is formulated near that range so it cleanses without leaving the cuticle swollen and open. Keeping the cuticle closed helps hold color in the cortex and leaves chemically treated hair smoother and less prone to fading and tangling. Alkaline products do the opposite by swelling the strand, clarifying shampoos are the ones made to strip buildup, and every shampoo relies on surfactants to clean.

What does a protein (reconstructor) conditioner do for chemically damaged hair?

• a.It penetrates the cortex and temporarily reinforces the weakened strand✓
• b.It permanently rebuilds the broken disulfide bonds throughout the cortex
• c.It coats the cuticle in oil that blocks every future haircolor service
• d.It raises the pH of the hair so that moisture escapes more freely

A protein or reconstructor conditioner carries small hydrolyzed proteins that enter the cortex and temporarily fill and strengthen hair weakened by chemical services or heat, improving elasticity until it is shampooed out. Moisturizing conditioners work mainly on the surface to restore softness, and leave-in products stay on the hair to protect it and ease combing. No conditioner permanently rebuilds broken disulfide bonds, and conditioners are formulated to smooth and close the cuticle rather than raise the pH.

Which draping is correct for a client who is about to receive a chemical service?

• a.A paper neck strip under a cloth cape, the standard drape used for dry cutting
• b.A neck strip on its own, so that the cape never touches the client's skin
• c.A clean towel and a neck strip only, with a cloth cape placed over the towel
• d.A waterproof cape with a towel underneath it and a second towel over it✓

Chemical draping calls for a waterproof cape, since relaxers, waving lotion, and color will damage clothing and irritate skin; a towel is placed under the cape at the neckline and a second towel is secured over the cape to catch drips. A paper neck strip with a cloth cape is the drape for a dry haircut, where the concern is only loose hair and comfort. In every drape, the cape must not touch the client's skin directly, and clean linens are used for each client.

Vigorous scalp manipulations and brushing are omitted before a relaxer or a permanent wave because they:

• a.make the hair so clean that the chemical solution cannot be absorbed
• b.abrade the scalp, so the chemical is far more likely to irritate the skin✓
• c.raise the temperature of the scalp, which neutralizes the waving lotion
• d.flatten the cuticle so tightly that the solution cannot enter the cortex

Massage and brushing scratch and irritate the scalp, and strong alkaline chemicals applied to abraded skin cause burning and sensitivity, so manipulations and vigorous brushing are omitted before a chemical service. When the hair must be cleansed first it is shampooed gently, without rubbing the scalp. Scalp manipulations remain valuable in a scalp treatment or an ordinary shampoo service, where they increase circulation and relax the client, and they are then followed by a normal styling service.

In haircutting, the parietal ridge is best described as:

• a.the highest point on the top of the head, located with a comb held flat
• b.the corner formed where the front hairline meets the side hairline
• c.the widest area of the head, where it begins to curve away from a comb✓
• d.the point at the back where the head curves inward toward the neck

The parietal ridge is the widest part of the head, found by resting a comb flat on the side and noting where the head curves away from it; it separates the top of the head from the sides and is a key landmark for building weight and layers. The apex is the highest point on top, the front corners are where the front and side hairlines meet, and the occipital area is the back of the head above the nape. Reference points guide consistent, repeatable cuts on any head shape.

A client asks for a shape with stacked weight and a beveled effect through the back. Which of the four basic haircuts creates that?

• a.The graduated cut, which builds a wedge of weight in the interior✓
• b.The blunt cut, in which every strand falls to one level at the perimeter
• c.The uniform-layered cut, in which lengths around the head are all equal
• d.The long-layered cut, which leaves the interior short and the ends long

A graduated cut is cut with medium elevation, commonly around forty-five degrees, so the lengths stack and build a visible weight line that produces the beveled, wedged effect at the back. A blunt or one-length cut uses no elevation and falls to a single perimeter line, a uniform-layered cut holds every section at ninety degrees so all lengths are the same, and a long-layered cut is overdirected so the interior is short and the perimeter is long. Elevation and the cutting line are what separate the four basic shapes.

Which of the four basic haircuts removes the most weight and produces the greatest movement at the ends?

• a.The one-length cut, which keeps a strong, heavy line at the perimeter
• b.The long-layered cut, which leaves the shortest lengths in the interior✓
• c.The graduated cut, which stacks weight and creates a visible weight line
• d.The blunt bob, which is cut with no elevation and no interior layering

A long-layered cut is built by overdirecting sections up and back so the interior lengths stay short while the perimeter stays long; this removes the most weight and gives the ends the most movement. A one-length or blunt cut keeps all the weight in a solid perimeter line, and a graduated cut concentrates weight into a stacked area rather than dispersing it. Matching the shape to the client's density matters, since removing that much weight from already fine hair can leave it looking sparse.

A stylist cuts each new subsection to the length of the subsection just cut, working up the head. This guideline is:

• a.a stationary guideline, to which every new section is combed back
• b.an overdirection line, drawn from the perimeter up to the crown
• c.a design line, which by definition is cut at zero degrees of elevation
• d.a traveling guideline, which moves along as each section is cut✓

A traveling or movable guideline moves with the stylist: the section just cut becomes the guide for the next one, which is how uniform and graduated layers are built. A stationary guideline stays in one place and every section is brought back to it, which produces increasing length and heavier, longer shapes such as a one-length cut. Overdirection is the act of combing a section away from its natural fall, and the design line or cutting line is the line along which the hair is cut at any elevation.

In haircutting, overdirection is the technique of:

• a.increasing the tension on a section so the ends stretch before cutting
• b.lifting a section higher than ninety degrees before making the cut
• c.combing a section away from its natural fall toward a chosen guideline✓
• d.cutting the perimeter a second time to correct an unbalanced line

Overdirection means combing a section away from where it naturally falls, toward a guideline placed elsewhere on the head, so that the lengths build progressively; it is how long layers and increasing-length shapes are created. It is a matter of direction, not of elevation or of tension, though all three are controlled together during a cut. Simply lifting a section to a higher angle changes elevation, and pulling harder changes tension; neither one is overdirection.

Why should a stylist use less tension when cutting very curly hair?

• a.Because stretched curls shrink when released, leaving the cut short✓
• b.Because curly hair cannot be cut accurately unless it is completely dry
• c.Because tension makes the shears slip and dulls the cutting edge faster
• d.Because high tension permanently straightens the curl pattern at the ends

Tension is the pull placed on a section while it is held for cutting, and even tension is what makes a cutting line accurate. Curly hair stretches a great deal under tension and then springs back once released, so cutting it stretched leaves the finished length far shorter than the client expected. Uneven tension anywhere on the head, curly or straight, produces an uneven line; tension does not dull shears or permanently change the curl pattern.