Montana Cosmetology License Exam — All Questions

An emulsion, such as a typical hair conditioner or hand cream, is best defined as:

• a.Immiscible liquids united by an emulsifier✓
• b.A pure element that cannot be broken down further
• c.A gas evenly dispersed through a liquid
• d.A solid completely dissolved in a liquid, as in a solution

An emulsion is a physical mixture of two or more immiscible (unblendable) substances, typically oil and water, held together by an emulsifier (surfactant) that keeps the droplets suspended. Common salon products are oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions. This is a physical mixture, not a pure element or a true solution of a solid dissolving completely; understanding emulsions helps explain how creams, lotions, and conditioners are formulated and behave.

In facial and scalp treatments that use electrotherapy, galvanic current differs from faradic current in that galvanic current is:

• a.A rapidly alternating current used mainly to produce heat
• b.A high-frequency current used to sanitize the skin with sparks
• c.A constant direct current that produces chemical reactions✓
• d.The same as household outlet current with no modification

Galvanic current is a constant, direct current (flowing in one direction) used to create chemical changes in the skin and to drive water-soluble products into or out of the skin (desincrustation and iontophoresis). Faradic current is an alternating, interrupted current used to cause muscle contractions (for toning). High-frequency (Tesla) current is a separate modality. Modalities in electrotherapy must be understood and used safely and only where permitted.

In the pH scale used throughout cosmetology chemistry, a change from pH 6 to pH 4 represents:

• a.The solution becoming more alkaline
• b.The solution becoming 100 times more acidic✓
• c.A small change of only two units
• d.The solution becoming twice as acidic

The pH scale is logarithmic, so each whole-number step is a tenfold change in acidity or alkalinity. Moving from pH 6 to pH 4 is a drop of two units, which means the solution becomes 10 x 10 = 100 times more acidic. Lower numbers are more acidic and higher numbers are more alkaline. This logarithmic nature is why small pH numbers on product labels represent large real differences in how a product affects the hair and skin.

Water is best classified as which of the following?

• a.An element, because it cannot be broken down into any simpler substance
• b.A compound, because two different elements are chemically combined in it✓
• c.A physical mixture, because its parts can be separated by simple filtering
• d.A suspension, because its particles settle out when it is left standing

Matter exists as elements, compounds, and physical mixtures. An element is the simplest form of matter and cannot be broken down into a simpler substance; oxygen and hydrogen are elements. Water is a compound because hydrogen and oxygen are chemically combined in a fixed proportion, producing a substance with properties unlike either element alone. A physical mixture combines substances without chemical change and can be separated physically, and a suspension is a mixture whose particles settle out on standing.

Which of the following is a chemical change rather than a physical change?

• a.Wetting the hair with water so that it can be set into a temporary wave
• b.Dissolving salt crystals into a bowl of warm water at the shampoo station
• c.Cutting a strand of hair, which changes its length but not what it is made of
• d.Rusting of a metal implement, in which the iron combines with oxygen✓

A physical change alters the form or appearance of a substance without creating a new substance, and it is often reversible. Wetting hair, dissolving salt, and cutting hair all change form only; the hair and the salt remain chemically the same. Rusting is a chemical change because iron combines with oxygen to form a new substance, iron oxide, with new properties. Oxidative haircolor and permanent waving are also chemical changes, which is why their results do not simply rinse away.

In chemistry, organic substances are those that:

• a.Contain carbon, are usually able to burn, and come from living things✓
• b.Contain no carbon and include metals, minerals, water, and pure air
• c.Are grown without pesticides and contain no synthetic ingredients at all
• d.Dissolve completely in water and never separate out on standing

In chemistry, organic simply means containing carbon; organic substances come from something that was once alive and are generally able to burn. Inorganic substances contain no carbon and include metals, minerals, water, and pure air. The everyday marketing sense of 'organic,' meaning grown without pesticides, is a farming term and not the chemical definition, which is a common exam trap. Solubility is a separate property and does not decide whether a substance is organic.

When a solid is dissolved in a liquid to form a solution, the liquid is called the:

• a.Solute, which is the substance that gets dissolved into the liquid
• b.Emulsifier, which is the ingredient that holds two liquids together
• c.Solvent, which is the substance that dissolves the other substance✓
• d.Surfactant, which is the ingredient that reduces the surface tension

A solution has two parts: the solvent, which does the dissolving, and the solute, which is dissolved. Water is called the universal solvent because it dissolves more substances than any other liquid, which is why so many salon products are water based. An emulsifier is a substance that holds two normally unmixable liquids together, and a surfactant is a substance that reduces surface tension so oil and water can be mixed. Solutions are uniform and do not separate on standing.

A salon product that must be shaken before every use because its ingredients settle is an example of:

• a.A true solution, in which the ingredients stay evenly and permanently mixed
• b.A suspension, in which undissolved particles are only temporarily dispersed✓
• c.A compound, in which the ingredients are chemically joined into one substance
• d.An element, which contains only one kind of atom and cannot be separated

A suspension is a mixture in which particles are large enough to be visible and are spread through a liquid only temporarily, so they separate on standing and the container must be shaken before use. A true solution stays uniformly mixed and does not separate. An emulsion is a third type of mixture in which an emulsifier holds two unmixable liquids together for a long time. A compound is a chemical combination of elements, and an element is a single kind of matter, so neither one settles out.

Which statement about an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion is correct?

• a.Oil droplets are spread through the water, so the product feels less greasy✓
• b.Water droplets are spread through oil, so the product feels heavy and greasy
• c.Oil and water are chemically combined, forming an entirely new compound
• d.No emulsifier is needed, because oil and water will mix together on their own

In an oil-in-water emulsion, droplets of oil are dispersed through a water base, so water is the external phase; these products feel lighter and less greasy and are the most common form for salon lotions and conditioners. In a water-in-oil emulsion the reverse is true and the product feels heavier and greasier, as with many cold creams and massage creams. An emulsion is a physical mixture, not a chemical combination, and it always requires an emulsifier because oil and water do not mix on their own.

How does the surfactant in a shampoo lift oil off the hair?

• a.Its acidic pH dissolves the oil so that plain water can carry it away
• b.It chemically bonds to the oil and changes it into a water-soluble compound
• c.It evaporates as the hair dries, carrying the oil away from the hair shaft
• d.Its oil-loving tail grips the oil while its water-loving head is pulled to the water✓

A surfactant molecule has two ends: a hydrophilic (water-loving) head and a lipophilic (oil-loving) tail. During shampooing the tail attaches to oil and dirt on the hair while the head is attracted to the water, so rinsing pulls the whole package away. This is a physical action of surface tension and attraction rather than a chemical reaction that converts the oil, and it has nothing to do with pH dissolving grease or with evaporation.

After an alkaline chemical service, a stylist applies an acidic finishing rinse. What does it do to the hair?

• a.It swells the hair shaft and lifts the cuticle so more product can get in
• b.It permanently rebuilds every disulfide bond broken during the service
• c.It contracts and smooths the cuticle and brings hair toward its normal pH✓
• d.It raises the hair's pH so any product left in the hair keeps processing

Alkaline products swell the hair and raise the cuticle so that chemicals can enter the cortex. An acidic product does the opposite: it contracts and smooths the cuticle and helps return the hair toward its normal slightly acidic pH, which is why acid-balanced rinses and conditioners follow alkaline services. It does not rebuild broken disulfide bonds, which only an oxidizing neutralizer does after a thio wave, and raising pH further would prolong rather than stop the alkaline action.

In an oxidation-reduction (redox) reaction:

• a.One substance is oxidized while another is reduced at the same moment✓
• b.Oxygen is always released as a gas and lost from the mixture entirely
• c.The substance that gains oxygen is said to be reduced by the reaction
• d.Only oxidation happens, and reduction is a separate reaction that follows

Oxidation and reduction always occur together, which is why the pair is called a redox reaction: as one substance is oxidized the other is reduced, in the same reaction. Oxidation is the addition of oxygen or the loss of hydrogen, and reduction is the addition of hydrogen or the loss of oxygen, so a substance that gains oxygen is oxidized, not reduced. Oxygen is not necessarily released as a gas; in permanent haircolor the oxygen from the developer is used up inside the hair.

Why does a salon performing nail and chemical services need effective ventilation?

• a.Because moving air shortens the drying time of every product applied
• b.Because ventilation takes the place of gloves during those same services
• c.Because vapors and volatile organic compounds build up and get inhaled✓
• d.Because circulating air disinfects the tools and surfaces in the room

Many professional products give off volatile organic compounds, vapors that evaporate readily at room temperature and accumulate in the breathing zone of a poorly ventilated salon. Good ventilation, including local exhaust at nail stations, reduces the concentration a worker inhales over a long shift. Ventilation is not a substitute for gloves or other personal protective equipment, and moving air does not disinfect anything, since disinfection requires an EPA-registered product and its full contact time.

Which unit measures the force that pushes an electric current forward through a conductor?

• a.The ampere, which measures the strength of the current that is flowing
• b.The volt, which measures the pressure that pushes the current along✓
• c.The ohm, which measures the resistance that the current has to overcome
• d.The watt, which measures how much energy is being used each second

A volt is the unit of electrical pressure, the force that pushes the current forward through a conductor; a standard salon outlet in the United States supplies about 120 volts. An ampere measures the strength or rate of the current flowing, an ohm measures resistance to that flow, and a watt measures how much electrical energy is being used in one second. Confusing pressure with strength of flow is the most common mistake on this topic.

A blow dryer is labeled 1,800 watts. What does that number describe?

• a.The resistance that the dryer's heating element offers to the current
• b.The electrical pressure that the dryer requires from the wall outlet
• c.The number of hours the dryer can safely run without being switched off
• d.The amount of electrical energy the dryer uses in one second of use✓

A watt measures how much electrical energy is being used in one second, so a 1,800-watt dryer consumes far more energy per second than a small appliance and draws more current from the circuit. Resistance is measured in ohms, and electrical pressure is measured in volts. Wattage says nothing about how long an appliance may run. Knowing wattage matters in the salon because plugging several high-wattage heat appliances into one circuit is what overloads it.

Which statement correctly describes alternating current?

• a.It flows steadily in one direction only and is produced chemically in a battery
• b.It is a rapid, interrupted current that flows first one way and then the other✓
• c.It cannot be used in salon appliances because outlet levels of it are unsafe
• d.It is produced only by a battery and must pass through a rectifier before it is used

Alternating current (AC) is a rapid and interrupted current that flows first in one direction and then in the other; it is the current supplied by wall outlets and used by hair dryers, curling irons, and most salon appliances. Direct current (DC) is a constant, even current flowing in one direction and is produced by chemical means such as a battery. A converter changes direct current to alternating current, and a rectifier changes alternating current to direct current, which is how galvanic devices are supplied.

Which material is a good conductor of electricity?

• a.Copper, which is used for the wiring running inside those same cords✓
• b.Rubber, which is used to cover the cords of most salon appliances
• c.Silk, which was traditionally used as a wrapping around electrical wire
• d.Glass, which is used to enclose the electrode of a high-frequency wand

A conductor is a material that transmits electricity easily, and most metals, especially copper, are good conductors. A nonconductor or insulator resists the flow of electricity; rubber, silk, glass, and dry wood are all insulators, which is why they are used to cover cords, wrap wire, and enclose electrodes. Electricity only flows along a complete circuit, the closed path from the source through the appliance and back. A break anywhere in that path stops the flow.

What is the practical difference between a fuse and a circuit breaker?

• a.A fuse can be reset by hand, while a circuit breaker has to be replaced
• b.A fuse increases the current flowing, while a circuit breaker reduces it
• c.A fuse protects the appliance, while a circuit breaker protects only people
• d.A fuse melts and must be replaced, while a circuit breaker is simply reset✓

Both devices protect a circuit from too much current. A fuse contains a metal element that melts and breaks the circuit when the current is too strong, so a blown fuse must be replaced. A circuit breaker performs the same protective job by switching off, and it can be reset by hand once the cause is corrected. Neither device changes how much current an appliance draws, and both protect the circuit and everyone near it rather than one or the other.

Why should outlets near a shampoo bowl be ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets?

• a.They raise the voltage delivered to appliances that are used around water
• b.They keep an appliance running normally even after its cord becomes wet
• c.They cut the power within a fraction of a second if current leaks to ground✓
• d.They take the place of the third, grounding prong on an appliance plug

A ground-fault circuit interrupter compares the current going out with the current coming back and shuts the circuit off within a fraction of a second if any of it is leaking to ground, such as through a person. That is why they belong wherever water and electricity are close together, including shampoo areas and sinks. A GFCI does not raise voltage or keep a wet appliance running, and it works alongside the third grounding prong rather than replacing it, since grounding gives stray current a safe path back.

Which habit is MOST likely to cause an electrical injury or fire in the salon?

• a.Pulling a plug out of the wall by yanking on the appliance's cord✓
• b.Unplugging appliances by taking hold of the plug and pulling it straight out
• c.Checking cords for fraying before each use and retiring damaged ones
• d.Plugging only one high-wattage heat appliance into each outlet in use

Yanking a cord to unplug an appliance strains the wires where they enter the plug, which is exactly how cords become frayed and how shorts and fires start; appliances should always be disconnected by grasping the plug itself. The other habits described are correct practice: inspect cords and remove damaged ones from service, and avoid loading several high-wattage appliances onto one outlet or circuit. Appliances should also never be handled with wet hands or left unattended while plugged in.

A UL mark on a salon appliance indicates that:

• a.The appliance is guaranteed by its manufacturer for the life of the salon
• b.The appliance has been tested and certified as safe by an independent lab✓
• c.The appliance may be used safely with wet hands or in a wet work area
• d.The appliance carries a registration for disinfecting hard, nonporous surfaces

UL stands for Underwriters Laboratories, an independent product-safety organization; a UL mark means the appliance has been tested against recognized safety standards and certified. It is a safety certification, not a performance guarantee or a warranty of any length. It does not make an appliance safe to handle with wet hands, and it has nothing to do with disinfectant registration, which is an EPA function for products used on surfaces.

Which type of light penetrates most deeply and is felt on the skin as heat?

• a.Ultraviolet light, the shortest wavelength and the least penetrating of them
• b.Visible white light, the band of wavelengths the human eye is able to see
• c.Infrared light, the longest wavelength of the three and felt as warmth✓
• d.Blue LED light, which is applied at the surface of oily or blemish-prone skin

Of ultraviolet, visible, and infrared light, infrared has the longest wavelength, penetrates most deeply, and produces the sensation of heat. Ultraviolet has the shortest wavelength and the least penetration, and it has germicidal effects. Visible light is the part of the spectrum the eye can see. LED devices use specific visible wavelengths at the skin's surface rather than deep heat, and any light therapy must be used according to the manufacturer's directions and the limits of the professional's scope of practice.

In galvanic iontophoresis, which process uses the negative pole to drive a negatively charged solution into the skin?

• a.Cataphoresis, which works from the positive pole and has a soothing effect
• b.Anaphoresis, which works from the negative pole to introduce a solution✓
• c.Desincrustation, in which a machine physically extracts debris from pores
• d.Tesla high-frequency current, which makes heat and a mild germicidal effect

Iontophoresis uses galvanic current to move charged substances into the skin, and it works because like charges repel. Anaphoresis uses the negative pole to introduce a negatively charged solution, while cataphoresis uses the positive pole for a positively charged solution and has an acidic, soothing, tissue-firming effect. Desincrustation is a related galvanic process that softens and emulsifies hardened sebum in the follicles; it is a chemical action, not a mechanical extraction. High-frequency, or Tesla, current is a separate modality that produces heat and a germicidal effect.